There are several types of conditioner ingredients, which differ in composition and function:
- Acidifiers, acidity regulators maintain the pH of the conditioner at around 3.5. When exposed to an acidic environment, the scaly surface of the hair constricts, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened
- Antistatic agents bind to hair and reduce static electricity, these may include cationic polymers such as Polyquaternium-10 and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
- Detanglers, which alter the pH of the hair's surface as an acidifier, or by coating it with polymers, as a gloss
- Polishers, chemicals that reflect light stick to the surface of the hair. Usually polymers, usually silicon, e.g. Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane
- Lubricants, such as fatty alcohols, Panthenol, Dimethicone, etc
- Moisturizing cream, which plays a role in keeping the hair moist. Usually, they contain a high percentage of humectants. They can also be made from natural oils such as Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Oils (EFAs - essential fatty acids), can help dry/porous hair become softer and more pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs)
- Preservatives help protect products from microbial spoilage during their shelf life
- Regenerative agent, usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is believed to be to penetrate the hair and strengthen the structure through polymer cross-linking
- Sequencer, to work better in hard water
- Sunscreen, to protect against protein breakdown and discoloration. Currently, Benzophenone-4 and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate are the two most commonly used sunscreens in hair products. Cinnamidopyltrimonium Chloride and a few others are used to a much lesser extent. Common sunscreens used on the skin are rarely used in hair products due to their texture and weight effects
- Surfactants - about 97% of hair is composed of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin contains negatively charged amino acids. As a result, conditioners often contain cationic surfactants, which are not completely washed away, because the hydrophilic element is strongly bound to keratin. The hydrophobic element of the surfactant molecules then acts as the new hair surface. Examples are Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride
- A heat protectant, usually a heat-absorbing polymer, that protects the hair from extreme heat, e.g. blow-drying, curling irons or hot rollers